Painted cabinets have become very popular. Many homeowners have outdated golden and pickled oak cabinets that they want to get rid of and painting them sounds like an easy solution. In general, painting isn’t hard, however to achieve a showroom like finish is hard.
It is very difficult to achieve a quality painted finish on oak cabinetry due to the soft grain and open pores unique to oak, not to mention the tannin (orange, green and brown stains) that lifts to the surface when waterborne finishes are used, which then requires the use of solvent-based sealers. If the oak has a high tannin level, it can be very difficult to eliminate the problem, even with solvent-based primers. Therefore, when painting oak cabinetry, consider selecting darker colors such as browns, espresso and black rather than lighter colors, such as white. Darker colors do a good job of hiding the soft grain, open pores and tannin stains and allows you to avoid solvent-based sealers. If possible, before beginning the project, make a sample using an old door or the back of a drawer front to ensure that you are satisfied with the end result.
Most of today’s higher-end painted cabinetry, especially lighter painted finishes such as white, is on maple or birch. Maple and birch have similar density (hardness) levels and are free of the issues found in oak and can provide an ultra smooth finish if properly applied. If your cabinets are maple or birch, you should achieve a better result than oak cabinets, regardless of the color used.
Applying a coat of paint to any surface will make it look better for a while, but how long will the new appearance and finish hold up? To enhance the longevity of the cabinet’s appearance and finish selecting quality finishes is essential. Today, many paints are all-in-one finishes (primer and paint combined). While these are good for general use, we use a separate primer-sealer and topcoat for our painted cabinet applications.
With all painted cabinetry, particularly maple cabinets, the primer-sealer or basecoat is the most important component to enhance the finish’s durability and water and chip resistance, common problems found in painted finishes. We have used many different primer-sealers and found Stix, a Benjamin Moore product, to be among the best. Stix is a premium environmentally friendly, waterborne acrylic urethane, bonding primer-sealer with excellent adhesion, even on glossy surfaces such as glass and tile. Stix creates an extremely hard finish that can be topcoated with many products. After thoroughly cleaning and abrading the doors and drawer fronts, we apply a minimum of two coats of Stix, hand sanding between each coat, followed by a minimum of two topcoats of pigmented (tinted) catalyzed lacquer. Stix can also be tinted to closely match the targeted color, while the pigmented lacquer topcoat is a custom color match. An alternative to solvent-based topcoats is Rustoleum’s Beyond, a premium environmentally friendly, waterborne acrylic enamel that provides a hard, water and chip resistant finish that can be cleaned after it has fully cured, unlike less expensive finishes. As a general rule, when buying finishes for painting cabinetry, more expensive, specialized finishes are generally the best products to use. I recommend always consulting with your local paint dealer. cabinet resurfacing
The next step is to choose the application method: brushed, rolled or sprayed. The application method should, in part, be based on your desired result, as well as the value of the cabinets. If the value is low, then any of the three methods is acceptable. However, if the value is high, or if you don’t have the budget to replace or fix them if the project doesn’t go well, you should then consider renting or investing in a good sprayer.
Spraying is the best method for applying finishes to wood surfaces, especially cabinetry. It is nearly impossible to avoid dust and other debris from contaminating the finish, especially using brushed and rolled on applications. It is even harder to avoid contaminates in lighter finishes, such as whites. However, if applied correctly, spraying can provide a look consistent with new painted cabinetry. There are many sprayers on the market that will a provide a good result, but to purchase a unit (gun, hose and compressor) with enough power to effectively spray thicker paints, expect to pay at least $500. For novices, high volume low pressure (HVLP) sprayers are easy to use. Fuji has a complete line of HVLP sprayers with prices starting at $400; however, I have never used FUJI sprayers. Wagner also carries entry-level sprayers, the 2600 and 2900 models, which I have used and can be purchased for $500 to $600; however, they are not currently available on Amazon. For $900 to $1,300, you can step up to the Graco FinishPro series sprayers. I have had good success with Graco sprayers and they are readily available.